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Bryce Canyon Area

Hiking Through a Museum of Late Things
(Ruby's Inn and Bryce Canyon National Park in Winter) - February 11, 2002 - To the carloads of Utahns lacing hiking boots or quelling a crying baby in the visitors center to the busloads of European and Asian tourists blinking in the bright sunshine...

Please, Go Easy on the Superlatives
(Bryce Canyon National Park) July 31, 2000 - I know the automobile reigns, but in many cases the best way to see things is on a bicycle.

The Economy of Light
(Phipps Canyon, in Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument) - June 11, 2001 - It was a fine May morning, I was walking and without noticing it had left the city. I was thinking about my troubles. The road turned to dirt, then narrowed, and finally became a trail through the seaside scrub, and ended at a Spanish cliff overlooking the Mediterranean...

Capitol Reef Area

The Reef, Part 2 of 2
(Adventures in Capitol Reef National Park) April 24, 2000 - When thinking back to some of the places I have seen while traveling across Utah and around the world, I am often reminded of a speech given by one of America's greatest authors, the late Edward Abbey...

The Reef, Part 1 of 2
(Adventures in Capitol Reef National Park) April 13, 2000 - I face a semi-circle of cliffs again. They drop from several hundred feet above me and end in a soupy pool of sweet water and clinging moss. This is not the way out of Cottonwood Wash.

Remote?
(Anasazi Indian State Park) - May 14, 2001 - I drove half the day to get here, had to suffer through spotty AM radio reception (there was no FM), and marveled at how far from everything I was.

Cedar City - Brian Head

An Encounter at Cedar Breaks National Monument
(Cedar Breaks National Monument) September 25, 2000 - Melissa and I were walking along the precipitous edge of Spectra Point, the 10,300-foot high classically beautiful viewpoint at Cedar Breaks National Monument when something hit me...

Some Falls Are Better Than Others
(A Treatise: On Learning to Snowboard) - March 6, 2001 - I was flying. Sort of. The baby lift at Brian Head was moving like a snail headed to bed, and was just about as high off the ground.

The Story of Thunder, Reverberating Across the Mountainside
(Brian Head Mountain Motorcycle Rally) July 17, 1999 - They began arriving Friday afternoon, at first a trickle and then an avalanche. Many of them rode in from the desert directly up the Markagunt Plateau to a resort town that is often the coolest spot in the country.

Pointing the Way to Water
(Parowan Gap) September 12, 2000 - The wind whistles through Parowan Gap. It twists and whistles and carries dust and summer storms. And it blows right past one of the most significant archaeological sites in the United States.

Poor, Poor Falstaff
(The Utah Shakespearean Festival) August 14, 2000 - Let me see if I can get this straight. Old Falstaff, grizzled and burly though he may be, decided it was time to really show his true affections for the women. He decided to court two of them...

Central Utah

In The Sunset, Big Lazy Loops, The West Desert, Part 1
(Fish Springs National Wildlife Refuge) May 29, 2000 - June 24th (1827) N E 40 Miles. I started verry early in hopes of soon finding water. But ascending a high point of a hill I could discover nothing but sandy plains of dry Rocky hills...

Dust, Sun and Endless Mountains, The West Desert, Part 2
(Bonneville Salt Flats) May 22, 2000 - Jay Banta says he wouldn't be surprised if his two kids, one a freshman at the University of Utah and the other a sophomore at West Desert High School, grow up to be...

Topaz, Utah's Internment Camp
(Description of Topaz near Delta) December 20, 1999 - This is where we brought the Japanese during World War Two. Surrounded by sand, sage and an immense sky, America brought 8,000 people of Japanese ancestry - even if they were actually Americans...

Head's Up
(Maple Canyon) - April 23, 2001 - Last October, while returning from a bike trip through the San Pete Valley, I left the paved road in a canyon near Moroni and lumbered up through a deep canyon into tall stands of trees.

A Haven For People With Metal Detectors
(The Historic Town of Marysvale) - February 25, 2002 - When Randy and Katie Moore showed up in Marysvale a few years back it's safe to say they had no intention of buying the oldest hotel in Utah. The two were thinking of retiring here and were thinking about buying some property. Then they saw the Pine Hotel...

Gold! By Jennifer Yates
(Marysvale, Utah) - Nuggets and flakes of gold brought enterprising miners with shovels and picks in hand to Marysvale, creating a classic American mining boomtown. Unlike the remnants of any bust and boomtown...

When Days, Piercing and Dry, Become Gifts
(Backcountry skiing in Tushar Mtns. near Elk Meadows Resort) February 14, 2000 - Alec Hornstein may have the greatest job in the world. I asked him flatly if he did and he sort of ducked the question, but regardless: Many adult Americans, I bet, would gladly trade part of their lives for a week or two of Alec's.

Elk Meadows, But Actually A Mountain
(Skiing at Elk Meadows Resort) February 7, 2000 - It's a frosty February morning, and Elk Meadows' five chairlifts hum; Elk Meadows' snow base, a good five feet worth, lies furrowed under tall fir trees.

Safety in High Walls and Civilization
(Cove Fort) - March 12, 2001 - On January 14, 1850, Parley P. Pratt and his band of 50 Mormon men trudged over tall mountains and through deep snow to make camp at what would later be called Cove Creek.

Sun, Sand, Sage
(Little Sahara Sand Dunes) December 13, 1999 - As it was, I found myself atop Sand Mountain, in the heart of the Little Sahara sand dunes, composing a best man’s toast to my brother, who is getting married next week in Dallas...

A Story of Utah
(Fillmore Territorial Statehouse) - October 22, 2001 - In the late 1840s Brigham Young, then the president of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints, found himself governor of what he hoped would soon be the largest state in the Union: the Territory of Deseret.

History Returning as Art
(San Pete County Bike Ride, Part One of Two) - April 30, 2001 - He started the chase when I, on bike, rounded a corner by his house, leaving relatively busy state Route 132 for state Route 117, a quiet country lane that swept up a broad hill toward the hamlet of Wales. The dog started his chase...

History Returning as Art, part 2
(San Pete County Bike Ride, Part 2 of 2) - May 7, 2001 - In his shop on Mt. Pleasant's historic main street, Paul Hart lets me look around while he works and listens to the radio. It is Sunday, and Hart, a violin maker, has a handful of students at work learning to make and restore violins.

On A Hilltop, Traces Of History
(Fremont Indian State Park) July 10, 2000 - Every morning, someone had to begin the process of hauling water up to the village from the river. Hauling water was a constant in life here, as was the struggle to grow enough food during the short frost-free season...

Davis/Antelope Island

Kayaking on the Great Salt Lake
I always wondered if the historian was right, or was the lake a unique and different world we didn't understand. I found the answer that day as my paddle pulled my kayak through the water.

Lost in the Phragmites
(A Day at the Layton Wetlands Preserve) May 8, 2000 - We hold our hands out for balance, walking one foot in front of the other across planks laid out on the marsh. Phragmite, a seven-foot tall grass, reaches over us, and we use our arms to break trail.

On An Island Named For Antelope, The Bison, Part 2
(Antelope Island Bison Roundup) November 15, 1999 - From an overlook called Mormon Rocks, high on the west side of Antelope Island, narrow canyons of rock and sage tumble down to crescent coves of sand, shore and marsh.

On An Island Named For Antelope, The Bison Part 1
(Antelope Island Bison Roundup) November 6, 1999 - The American Bison, a formidable woolly animal that many people around the globe associate with the persona of the American West, an animal so mythical some are surprised it actually physically exists...

Escalante/Grand Staircase Area

The World, and Life, in a Canyon, Part 2
(Hiking Escalante) October 10, 1999 - How do you describe the warmth of an October Saturday afternoon? This afternoon, in the belly of the Escalante, the rock is hot but the shadows are cool, and the water of the river downright cold.

The World, and Life, in a Canyon, Part 1
(Hiking Escalante) October 9, 1999 - Let’s say it starts with one drop of water, one drop, which falls onto rock and stone and forms not only the foundation of life, but also the beginnings of canyons.

Is There No Right Way to See Calf Creek Falls?
(Calf Creek Falls) - June 4, 2001 - Because I had foolishly left Porter in the car, and because it was approaching what I call the witching hour in southern Utah - that 4 p.m. time of Sunday when everyone seems to clear out in order to get home at a decent hour...

When Things Get Old...
(Escalante State Park) - May 21, 2001 - Several years ago, on the way to my first-ever canyon hiking trip in southern Utah, the group of hikers I was traveling with made an emergency stop at Escalante State Park. I say ‘emergency’ because it had not been our plan to stop there...

Kanab - Grand Canyon No. Rim

A Summer Evening With the Artists
(Southern Utah Painter Cyrus Mejia and Photographer Raphael de Peyer) - August 7, 2000 - I know that you have become accustomed to me sending dispatches while climbing mountains, biking across valleys and skiing down steep slopes. But on occasion I like to hobnob with the beautiful people, too.

I'm Not Coming In To Poop-scoop Until Everyone Takes Three Steps
(A Day at Best Friends Animal Sanctuary, near Kanab ) July 24, 2000 - It's a solitary job, this poop-scooping. Someone has to do it, right? Someone has to do it? Hey, why don't these dogs - if they were so smart they would scoop their own stuff. Maybe they are smart, and that's why I'm the one scooping.

What Is That Music In Them Thar Hills
(Kanab Acoustic Bluegrass Music Festival) July 17, 1999 - On a summer evening in Kanab, a small crossroads town on the Utah/Arizona border, the air cools quickly in the evening but the streets radiate warmth.

Lake Powell Area

Houseboat Adventures Across Lake Powell
We’re chugging into Bullfrog Marina on a sunny summer morning, our houseboat running at half speed. The group has gathered on the front deck to enjoy our last few minutes of time outside “reality.” Bill, my best friend at the time and our official “partymeister,” breaks the silence by asking, “I wonder what has happened in the real world since we’ve been away?”...

Logan/Bear Lake

Five Hours Atop Bear Lake Summit
(Backcountry skiing at Bear Lake Summit) January 17, 2000 - There is a time, it seems, when no matter how much clothing you have on you are still naked. These are times when 'clothing' - the societal apparatuses we wrap around ourselves - just doesn't do much good.

Beaver Mountain
(Skiing at Beaver Mountain Resort) January 10, 2000

Camping at the Crossroads
(Logan's Festival of the American West) August 28, 2000 - There is a pretty interesting pull-out map in this month's National Geographic. Titled The Pathfinders on one side and Western Migration on the other, and chronicling the periods of 1803-1848 and 1841-1869, the maps look...

The Widening Spell of the Leaves
(The Cache Valley) - November 5, 2001 - To travel alone is risky business. To not follow one's dreams is even riskier. So I took my good friend Laura on my long-anticipated bike tour of northern Utah's Cache Valley, and was all the better for it.

Moab, Arches, & Canyonlands Area

All the Pretty Arches
(Roadside Attractions on the Road from Moab to Monticello) - October 2, 2000 - There was a big muddy puddle blocking the road to Looking Glass Arch, and I had to walk the last half-mile. Not long ago I wouldn't have walked. I would have gotten the truck stuck ankle deep mud trying to get through. Or, more likely...

Stars at Noon
(The San Rafael Swell 'National Monument') - January 28, 2002 - Charge was doing exactly what I told him not to - he was hiking with his camera essentially around his neck. We were deep into the chute, a labyrinthine sunless canyon as wide as a Suburban and filled waist deep with swiftly moving muddy water.

Clearing Cataract, by Lin Sorenson
(Legendary whitewater in red rock country) - When people think about Cataract Canyon, awe-inspiring rapids come immediately to mind. The canyon is legendary, thanks to vivid stories of raging torrents and capsized boats written by the explorers who first navigated the waters.

Westwater Canyon, By Brooks Stevenson
Rafting trips–whether they involve extreme whitewater, a few boiling pools that raise your heart rate a tad, or just some smooth flowing flat water that provides unparalleled scenery–have to be one of the best ways to see the sandstone canyon country of southern Utah.

Newspaper Rock
(Newspaper Rock State Park) December 25, 2000 - There is no way to date petroglyphs. No one knows that they mean – or if someone does, they’re not telling. Despite decades of study of rock art panels in Utah and the rest of the West, the fact is we know little more than when we started.

Down the River
(A Day on the Colorado) June 19, 2000 - You can hear the rapids from around the bend in the canyon, but you don't see the true size of them until your raft crests one and faces the dipping swell in front of another.

Nature's Yard Stick
(Moab's Slickrock Bike Trail) June 12, 2000 - Everyone has heard of the Slickrock Trail. I mean, not everyone everyone, but practically everyone. At least everyone who mountain bikes, and then some.

Moab, Thou Art My Washpot; London, Tokyo, Paris, Moab...
(Moab) - June 5, 2000 - Moab is the center of the Earth. I heard that somewhere, I think. Or maybe I saw it on a bumper sticker. Anyway, it's apt.

From the Hump of Clyde
(Experiences with Camelot) - August 6, 2001 - Oh Clyde. Clyde Clyde Clyde. Clyde was acting up, I guess you'd say. He was running me into trees, brushing me against rock and, perhaps worst of all, stopping with no warning (and no invitation) to chew on tumbleweeds. Not perfect behavior, perhaps...

How Red is Red?
(Fisher Towers) - July 29, 2001 - 'I've just seen bits and pieces of what goes on there,' said my good friend Laura, as we passed an unnamed dirt road that appeared to lead down to the Colorado River.

If That's Ray's, Then This Must Be Green River
(The Quirkiness of Green River) - August 13, 2001 - 'This is Ray's,' she said. 'You have to order a hamburger.' Against the better judgment of Laura, I got the teriyaki chicken, which did not even come in burger form, but instead was served as a breast, with a piece of bread and accompanied by a fair-sized baked potato.

The Story of Rain, The View From F6
(Sorrel River Ranch) - September 3, 2001 - I woke up to rain pounding on the roof and lightning illuminating a John Wayne country of buttes and pinnacles. It was still hours before sunrise, but the storm rolled across the canyon...

Monument Valley Area

A Church Not Made By Hands
(Edge of the Cedars State Park) - October 23, 2000 - At the trailhead register a lot of people had complained that the path was a hard one to follow. The trail to Butler Wash ruins was

Bridges to Sky
Natural Bridges National Monument - (January 1, 2001) - Standing beneath a natural bridge is like standing in another dimension. Or a sort of dimensionless time. Wind whistles through the rock, dust hangs in the air.

Houses of Stone and Light
(Hovenweep National Monument) October 16, 2000 - Amidst all the natural and supernatural splendor of the Four Corners, I am not sure I would have chosen this spot to build a major architectural complex.

Preface to an Unusual Loss of Words
(Monument Valley) October 30, 2000 - It is hard, I think, to add any meaningful dialogue to something so part of the American psyche as Monument Valley. It is equal parts meta-Americana, pre-Americana, post-Americana and non-Americana.

An Soliloquy for Quiet Country, and the Sounds Inside It
(Hanging Out in Bluff) November 6, 2000 - Sunset in Bluff is accompanied by the sounds of a barking dog and dinner plates being passed. Few cars make it down the main street - the town is small enough to just walk around - and almost no one is passing through.

A Literary Interlude: Ed Abbey's 'The Monkey Wrench Gang'
(Valley of the Gods) - October 9, 2000 - Hayduke, lagging far behind, saw the bishop's choice and took the right fork. Directly into the waiting arms of the 'authorities'? Maybe, and then again, maybe not. Though not intimately familiar with this area...

A Shift Between the Seasons
(Green River to Monticello) - September 19, 2000 - Summer's over. The bikes are being put away, the kayaks stowed for winter, the ski areas putting the final touches on new lifts and restaurants. In the mountain resort towns, the streets are momentarily free of RVs and rental Jeeps.

Ogden

Night Skiing at Nordic Valley
February 4, 2002 - The dancing shadows and billowing wind make it hard to properly discern the size of Nordic Valley ski area, especially late at night, when the lights of...

The Preservation of Emotion, Excitement and Struggle
(Hill Air Force Base Aviation Museum) - February 18, 2002 - By 1948, with more than 10,000 of them in service, the AT-6 Texan was already the most widely used aircraft in history. The single engine simple plane, with a 600 hp Pratt and Whitney engine and 42-foot wingspan...

Suckerholes
(Powder Mountain Ski Area) February 19, 2001 - Suckerhole is what we call a spinning, fleeting patch of blue sky that travels across an otherwise gloomy horizon. What they do is suck you into thinking that the storm is clearing, that blue sky is just an hour away...

Vertigo
(Snowbasin Ski Area) February 12, 2001 - Several years ago, while ski mountaineering in British Columbia, I experienced vertigo for the first time. I was above timberline on a mountain in central British Columbia. The weather had not been good to start with...

Holding Steady at the Shooting Star
Everything You Need to Know About Huntsville - (February 5, 2001) - 'That thing looks weird,' said Laura. 'It's bothering me.' It was the knackwurst portion of my Mini-Star Burger, a mini portion of the Shooting Star's finest...

Ogden Rec Center
AP reports: A 125,000-square-foot recreation center will be named for Salomon, a major ski brand, as part of the incentives to land the parent company, Amer Sports Corp.

How Now, Pow Mow?
Dnver Post pop quiz: What’s the biggest ski area in the country? The ski area with the most skiable terrain in the United States is northern Utah’s Powder Mountain.

Ogden Ranked Among Best Places
Forbes.com ranks Ogden #11 on its list of Best Places for Business and Careers

Michael Adams will lead Atomic USA to Ogden, Utah
A 25-Year Veteran of the Wintersports Industry, Adams Will Oversee Atomic USA’s Transition to Ogden, Utah

Breaking Into Snow Business
Wall Street Journal Reports: Ogden’s plan to become a premier center for outdoor tourism: an abandoned cannery with rotting wood floors and boarded-up windows. In a few months, it will become home to some of the biggest brands of the ski industry, in-cluding Salomon and two other units of Helsinki-based Amer Sports.

"We Have Everything You Want … If We Can Find It"
(Getting Lost at Smith and Edwards) - September 5, 2000 - This is the sort of place where the shoppers drive such large pickup trucks that they don't fit into the parking lot.

Park City

This Is The Sound Of Me Screaming
(Snowmobiling at Daniels Summit) April 3, 2000 - One hand on the brake, one on the gas. I had forgotten the name of my guide, my two partners, my friendly host, the mountain I was on - just about everything.

Learning Cartography at The Canyons
The Canyons Ski Resort (January 29, 2001) - A trail map of The Canyons ski area lay before me on my lap, and it was like a map of a faraway country.

Day One
(Skiing Begins And, As Usual, The America's Opening Kicks It Off) November 27, 2000 - Atop the mountain I rest for a moment, have a sip of coffee, pull out the camera and snap a few pictures, then pause for contemplation, looking all around. Once again, in the marvelous march of seasons...

Deer Valley, Where If You Ask Nicely, They Carry Your Skis For Y
(Skiing at Deer Valley Resort) January 31, 2000 - Look, let's not play silly poet here. Let us leave the adjectives for better times. This is a lousy ski year. I think it's worse than last year, even, and last year was so bad I swear...

All This Sun Has Gone Straight To My Head
(Sundance Film Festival and Park City) - January 24, 2000 - You could pick out the ones from L.A. very easily. They wore black, and lots of it, drank tons of high-octane coffee, talked on cell phones incessantly and wore bad designer ski outfits, outfits which back in southern California looked very smart but once up in the mountains were not very smart at all.

From Mechanics to Abstracts
(Park City's Kimball Art Center Celebrates 25 Years) - April 2, 2001 - Back in the '30s and '40s, this cavernous building at the base of Park City's Main Street was a car mechanic's garage. Later, it housed a Pontiac dealership.

Gravity, Heaven
(Park City Balloon Adventures) - March 26, 2001 - I bolt out of bed at 5 a.m., stunned by the alarm clock. Pulling on my pants, I look out the window: it is dark still, but I can see that the sky is cloudy.

Provo/Utah Valley

Summer's Waning Days
(Hiking the Oquirrh Mountains) August 22, 1999 - By the calendar, it is no shorter than any other season: 92 days. And certainly, the notion that summer is bounded strictly by the solstice and the autumnal equinox is little more than a scientific estimate.

Winter In Utah (Christmas Over, Winter Sets In)
Christmas Over, Winter Sets In (January 8, 2001) - Christmas is a holiday for most Americans that has simply gotten out of hand. It is too large to control. It is just too much. Sometime around late October or early November, Christmas seems like a good idea. It seems like it would be a nice time. Then, about a month later, reality sets in, and sets in hard. Pretty soon, Christmas just isn't that much fun. Before it even happens we wish it were over.

Elegy, With a Whorl of Rainbow-Colored Water Inside
(Fly-fishing the Provo River with Rocky Mountain Outfitters) - June 25, 2001 - Ironically, perhaps, I spent my first-ever day of fly-fishing thinking not about the fish, but about the arc my fly line took as it wished through the air, from downstream water to air to upstream water, back and forth like that, hanging in the air, as if suspended by the sunlight glinting off the Provo River.

Art's Trickle-down Theory
(Springville World FolkFest) July 10, 1999 - For 30 minutes on Saturday, Springville, Utah, had the look and feel of Soho. Well, almost.

In Utah County, A Somewhat Different View of God
(The Opening of Spanish Fork's Hare Krishna Temple) - July 9, 2001 - The world’s newest Hare Krishna temple is not on the chaotic streets of Mumbai or in the tepid rice paddies of Bangalore but instead surrounded by peach and apple orchards, hay pastures...

Good Clean Fun
(Sundance Ski Area) - January 15, 2001 - Somebody was calling it 'Ocean View.' I popped open a Mr. Pibb and tore into a sports bar. Bill stuffed a gob of philly sandwich into his mouth, let some drip onto the napkin tucked into his shirt, then sat back and took in the view.

Salt Lake City

Holiday Letter, From One Dog to Another
(This defies description) - December 27, 1999 - Dear Meg, Benedictions: I hope you have stopped sweating. That is the last image I have of you, sweating under the oak tree.

In All This Beauty There Are Still New Things to Behold
(What's New at Utah's Ski Areas) - November 19, 2001 - If you would have had the fortunate luck to stand atop Mount Ogden a few Saturdays ago, after a brilliant early season storm had blanketed...

Ski Ski Ski, Breath Breathe Breathe Breathe
(A Guide to the Outdoor Olympic Venues, Part One of Two) - December 10, 2001 - The key to hitting your mark in ski archery, said Eric, a World Cup contender, is breathing. Coming off the cross-country ski track...

It's Downhill All the Way
(A Guide to the Outdoor Olympic Venues, Part Two of Two) - December 17, 2001 - There is a stadium at the base of Park City ski area that would do any National Basketball Association team proud. And there's another one over at Snowbasin.

Among Other Things, a House Built for Speed
(A Guide to the Indoor Olympic Venues) - December 31, 2002 - The Winter Olympics have never really had it easy. Shunned in the first few years of their existence, and plagued by political turmoil and scandals of all sorts, more than once high-level officials have threatened to...

The Olympic Torch Relay
January 7, 2002 - Emily Harnden is the sort of inspirational figure that the Olympic Torch Relay was built around. Harnden, 52, is a teacher and coach in Portland, Ore., who spends a large amount of time volunteering, especially for the American Cancer Society in a residential camp...

Too Much of a Good Thing?
(The Where's Jeff Best of Salt Lake City) - January 14, 2002 - I drink a fair bit of wine, and the best bottle I ever had was this bottle I brought back from Spain this spring, a Marques de Riscal Rioja (that means red) Reserva 1995. I paid like $11 for it...

Open the Beverage Within
(A Where's Jeff Clearinghouse of Olympic Information) - January 21, 2002 - The Olympics still matter, to paraphrase a recent national magazine news story. Despite the money, the scandals, those damned terrorists, and what seems like unending construction, there is a spirit to the Olympics that cannot be equaled in any other medium.

One for the Gold
(The 2002 Salt Lake City Paralympics) - March 18, 2002 - Twenty one-time Paralympic gold medal winner Ragnhild Myklebust clutched her 22nd gold last Friday afternoon and raised her arms high in the air, her smile as wide as the blue sky over the Heber Valley.

In Praise of the Beauty of a Mountain Sunrise
(Easter Sunday Sunrise at Snowbird) - April 1, 2002 - At 6:15 this morning my friend Laura and I and about 700 others stood atop Snowbird Ski Area's Hidden Peak - 10,992 feet - and silently watched the sun rise over the Uinta and Wasatch mountains. Like a skirt being lifted, or like a cloth being pulled slowly from a table...

Elegy, With a Sworl of Snow Inside
(That's It For Where's Jeff) - April 15, 2002 - A few weeks ago I took a road trip to southern Utah, St. George to be specific, and the trip summed up in so many ways what I have come to love about this job. At the time I knew I was leaving Utah.com, and all along the way I kept doing things and seeing people and taking notes and snapping pictures and kept wondering...

Kayaking the Great Salt Lake
I always wondered if the historian was right, or was the lake a unique and different world we didn't understand. I found the answer that day as my paddle pulled my kayak through the water.

Urban Wilderness
(Salt Lake City's Millcreek Canyon) December 18, 2000 - Here's a family walking in the snow. Here are two hard-core crosscountry skiers, both of them in stretchy lycra and expensive fleece vests. Here are two backcountry skiers headed into the high country.

That's Some Pile of Rocks
(Visiting the World's Largest Open-pit Copper Mine, Kennecott Utah Copper) July 3, 2000 - You would not be reading this story were it not for copper. Without copper you wouldn't have electricity to power your computer - and you probably wouldn't even have a computer.

True Confessions of Two Tourists from Texas
(Journal of Jeff's parents' visit to Utah) June 26, 2000 - For about a year you have been enjoying my searing commentary and rambling in-the-head thoughts on Utah and what there is to see and do here. But look, if there's one thing I ain't it's a typical tourist. You know, like, I live here. Have read all the books, talked to all the experts...

I Welcome the World Here
(A day in downtown Salt Lake City) December 6, 1999 - There was a beat on the street, and the shoppers and sightseers who stepped off Salt Lake's new rapid transit electric train seemed in sync with it...

Beehives and Kettle Corn at the Height of Summer
(Utah Arts Festival) - July 15, 2001 - 'Look at the sun hitting those mountains,’ said Laura Love from the main stage at the Utah Arts Festival. ‘What mountains are those?’

Atop a New Monument, an Ancient Forest
(The LDS Conference Center) - April 9, 2001 - To be truthful, this was what you'd call an immature forest, with the trees no more than six feet high, though size itself is not necessarily an indication of age with these species. Pinus longaeva, the Great Basin bristlecone pine, grows very, very slowly.

Basil to Die For
(Salt Lake City Farmers' Market) - August 20, 2001 - I have a confession to make: though the only thing I have ever grown successfully is arugula, I have this fantasy of moving to somewhere where the soil is rich and opening a high-quality organic farm and winery.

The Exorbitant Allure of Great Salt Lake
(The Great Salt Lake) - June 18, 2001 - In the 1820s and 1830s government explorers and private expeditioneers headed into the deserts of western Utah in search of beaver, gold and the Rio Buenaventura, the river they thought they led west from the Great Salt Lake to the Pacific.

Ouch! That ... Oooh, That Feels Good
(The Utah College of Massage Therapy) - July 22, 2001 - My back was so crimped up I could hardly stand straight. Chalk it up to hours at a desk, yelling at people on the phone ( I am also a newspaper reporter) and hours more on a road bike each afternoon...

In Praise of the Beauty of Simple Pleasures
(The Utah State Fair) - September 17, 2001 - Don M. Hansen made his first saddle in 1939, and on a recent Saturday, at a table inside a pavilion at the Utah State Fair, he was making another one, hammer blow by hammer blow.

In Search of Pink Floyd
(Salt Lake City's Tracy Aviary) - October 8, 2001 - If you are lucky, some day when you are tooling along the south shore of Great Salt Lake you might catch a glimpse of Pink Floyd.

A Free Day is a Gift Indeed
(Day Trips from Salt Lake City) - December 3, 2001 - Perhaps the loneliest moment of my life was spent in full view of a city of one million people.

Kim by 10, Alta by 10:30
(Spring skiing at Alta Ski Resort) - May 1, 2000 - Up to sunlight and birds. Clouds over the mountains, some thick and low, and sprinkles by the Great Salt Lake. In Salt Lake City, wet streets, new buds. An hour with a mocha, a half-dozen bagels and the Sunday Tribune. Kim at 10. Alta by 10:30.

Alta at Night
(Night skiing at Alta Resort) - January 3, 2000 - It was well after midnight, snow cold and dark blue and glittering as though under sun, and Kim and I and 8 other skiers and boarders were dropping off the 10,400-foot summit of Patsy Marly into 16 inches of fresh snow, linking beautiful turns and hollering into the empty night sky.

The V-Tree Gang
(Skiing at Brighton) March 6, 2000 - The storm was trying to move into the Wasatch. Thick blue clouds capped Mt. Raymond and Tuscarora and Sunset Peak.

Where the Old West Reaches a Climax
(Tooele's Old West Festival) September 24, 1999 - 'You're not going to feel the positive effects from a dream catcher unless you believe in them first,' said Nancy, from Mapleton, who was selling dream catchers, spirit catchers, and worry dolls from her small booth at Tooele's annual...

From One End of Life to Another
(Hiking with Cnacer Wellness House - Deseret Peak) - July 2, 2001 - Why not begin at the end? At about 2 p.m. on a recent Saturday Linda Rodier and her daughter, Danielle, reached the summit of 11.031-foot Deseret Peak together, ending a grueling five-hour climb.

Skiing at Solitude Resort
(That's the Sound of Freedom) February 28, 2000 - It's 8 a.m. in Big Cottonwood Canyon, and again the sound of cannon fire is reverberating from mountain to mountain. It's not a war, exactly. At least not man versus man. Rather, it is man against the onslaught of snow.

Saturday's Magic Carpet Ride
(Belly Dance Festival) August 28, 1999 - It was a spectacular, windless morning at Snowbird, and a small flotilla of adorned belly dancers were gyrating, shaking and slinking through the seated crowd like hissing serpents.

Will You Teach Me How to Smell Snow?
(Snowbird) - April 16, 2001 - Laura and I skied at Solitude and Snowbird this weekend, and the whole time no one from the resorts said anything to us. You know, usually when you get onto the chair the lift...

St. George

Three Corners of Earth, Part 3 of 3
(St. George history and attractions) March 27, 2000 - It is generally believed that Fray Francisco Atanasio Dominguez and his exploration party, which included Fray Francisco Silvestre Velez de Escalante, were the first white persons to enter Utah and journey towards southwestern Utah.

Three Corners of Earth, Part 2 of 3
(Southeastern Utah - Mountain Meadows, Hamblin Home, and Brigham Young Home) March 20, 2000 - This is the saddest place in Utah. It may even be one of the saddest places in the West. It is called Mountain Meadow.

Three Corners of Earth, Part 1 of 3
(Southeastern Utah - Landscape and geography) March 13, 2000 - From the highest point in the Deep Creek Mountains the world falls away at weird angles. The air is cold like a trout stream but far off on the desert the Earth shimmers under heat waves...

Big Club, Small Balls
(Golfing at Coral Canyon) - March 4, 2002 - Steve Toronto let loose on a golf ball like a bullet from a small caliber pistol that arced up over hole 12 at Coral Canyon, over swaths of mini-canyons and paloverde and even Joshua trees, over patches of slickrock, and higher now into the...

Red Mountain Adventure Spa
(St. George, Utah) - The healthiest place on earth might well be the Red Mountain Adventure Spa. Until my stay at the St. George resort, I thought I knew about eating well and exercise - and I thought...

Southern Utah's Own Sound of Music
(Tuacahn Summer Festival of Theatre) - September 10, 2001 - How do the great redrock canyons of southern Utah form? Over millions of years oceans, lakes and rivers deposit thick loads of colorful sediments that get compressed into rock.

Vernal /Flaming Gorge

Alone in Utah's Lost Corner
(The Tavaputs Plateau and Book Cliffs) - I was listening to the Friday afternoon rantings of Dr. Laura, barely cognizant of the steady rattle of the truck's tires over the dirt road of Nine Mile Canyon.

Three Days, 180 miles, Muscle Power, Part 1
(Biking through Northeastern Utah) September 10, 1999 - In the end I had a sunburned nose, ears and thighs, two slightly-more-shapely calves, a terrible thirst and a deep appreciation for the scope and variety or road kill. But it didn't start out that way.

Three Days, 180 miles, Muscle Power, Part2
(Biking through Northeastern Utah and Dinosaur National Monument) September 11, 1999 - "I don't know," said Hanna, the afternoon clerk of the Landmark Inn. "It's just kind of weird. They all like dinosaurs."

Zion National Park Area

The Chinle Trail - Zion
I feel like I’m wearing concrete goulashes, my knees ache, and my pack actually seems to have gotten heavier throughout the day. But I’ve got the redrock splendor of Zion on both sides and a Cheshire cat grin on my face. It doesn’t matter what I’m doing or how tired I feel; I love this place...

The Perfection of Solitude: A Sequence
(Zion National Park) - September 24, 2001 - A few weeks ago I made Laura a waterfall. We had been in southern Utah, and without telling her why, I stopped alongside a road and picked up a belly full of deep red sandstone rocks...

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