Canyonlands' Ghostly Gallery

Canyonlands National Park is noted for its scenic overlooks, rough jeep trails and raging whitewater rivers. One of its lesser-known attractions, a remarkable panel of ancient rock art, is miles off the beaten path, in the middle of nowhere, but well worth visiting.

Edward Abbey, a writer known for his vivid descriptions of America's desert Southwest, used these words to describe the Great Gallery of Horseshoe Canyon:

"These are sinister and supernatural figures, gods from the underworld perhaps who hover in space, or dance, or stand solidly planted on two feet carrying weapons - a club or sword. Most are faceless but some stare back at you with large, hollow disquieting eyes. Demonic shapes, they might have meant protection and benevolence to their creators and a threat to strangers: beware, traveler, you are approaching the land of the horned gods...."

After reading such descriptions, and seeing photos of the rock art, I decided I had to visit the gallery. I've now been back several times and it has become one of my favorite spots, but that first visit will always be memorable.

I awoke with the first light of dawn, a bad habit I'm trying hard to shake. Unsuccessfully in my attempts to return to dreamland, I lingered in my comfy mummy bag, hesitant to scramble out because I knew the fall air would be nippy. I unzipped my tent door and watched as the sky lightened. Soon the entire sky and nearby cliffs were aglow with a soft, salmon-colored light, harmonious across the entire visible world. It was a spectacular show - it alone would have justified the trip. Dawn in the desert is a mystical time.

We broke camp and quickly descended into a shadowy chasm full of wonder and mystery. Each step took us back into pre-history, to a time before "The Ancient Ones."

Even though I knew what to expect, a shiver ran down my spine as I rounded a bend and suddenly realized huge, ghostly figures were staring at me. Eerie humanoids. Some, undoubtedly gods or great ones, standing 10-feet-tall with animals and special symbols incorporated into their robes. Some without arms or eyes. Others with large, unblinking eyes, watching over their canyon sanctuary.

We sat quietly and stared at the drawings, noticing more and more of the intricate detail with each passing minute. Noticing but not comprehending. Each new detail brought unanswerable questions: Who created this artwork? Why here, in this fortress-like canyon in this remote and rugged spot, far from any oasis deemed habitable by modern man? What did the figures mean to their creators?

Horseshoe Canyon was originally called Barrier Canyon and the rock art found there is some of the most significant in North America. It sets a style and standard by which other rock art is evaluated. To protect the site while allowing public access, Horseshoe Canyon was added to Canyonlands National Park in 1971.

The canyon has been used by many people over thousands of years and it shelters art from various periods. But the dominant work - including that in the Great Gallery - is attributed to the Archaic culture and dates back to 1,000 - 2,000 B.C. That was long before the prehistoric Anasazi or Fremont or any modern tribe entered the region.

The Great Gallery is on my list of must-do adventures. It's a relatively short hike of moderate difficulty over a well-marked trail. It's suitable for families and youth groups.

The hike is enjoyable - it would be a fun outing even without the rock art. The canyon is scenic, with sheer slickrock walls, an intermittent stream, a forest of cottonwood trees, many other plants and a variety of animals.

It can be incorporated into a tour that includes the other sections of Canyonlands National Park, along with Arches National Park and other adventure destinations in the Moab area. Late summer and early fall are ideal times to visit this area.

- Dave Webb

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